Delhi has three branches of this fantastic little South Indian restaurant; the one in Hauz Khas is the original, atmospherically decorated with mirror-framed Tanjore paintings and pillars that have been beautifully carved and embossed. Soothing temple music fills the subtly lit interior. You start your meal with a spicy peppery lentil soup, called rasam, which is drunk as a curative and is something of an acquired taste. Thalis, or multicourse platters, are served at meal times, and are a good way to sample a variety of tastes from the South. Alternatively, you can choose from a whole range of dosas (akin to a pancake).
Try tangam paper masala dosa; it’s a paper-thin pancake made from rice and lentil flour. The ingredients may sound ridiculously simple, but dosas easily become addictive. On the side you’ll be served chutney made from ground coconut and green chilies, and sambar, a souplike concoction of lentils, tamarind, and vegetables. Tea and coffee are served in the style typical of the South, but there’s no alcohol. You’ll recognize the restaurant by the stone Nandi bull statue that faces the front entrance.