Besides the fact that Haveli’s food is exceptional, it’s almost worth a visit just to admire the sumptuous decor. One wall showcases fine floral frescoes and decorative reliefs, while the ceiling is adorned with carved wooden haveli eaves, gilt tiles, and Belgian chandeliers. In the evenings, musical and cultural performances are staged on a raised marble platform under a beautiful canopy. A great way to get a taste for North Indian cuisine is to order a Maharaja thali, a silver platter filled with tandoori prawns, masala chicken, spicy lamb, mixed vegetable curry, and heavenly black dal, a lentil specialty that’s cooked for up to 20 hours over hot charcoal. Try the signature murgh dhanya, a mild chicken curry flavored with cilantro. (Note that the Taj Mahal Hotel also has a very good Chinese restaurant, House of Ming; it’s not in the same class as Taipan in The Oberoi, but it’s definitely easier on your wallet.)