Staying here is quite simply your best opportunity to discover what “real” Delhiites are all about: sophisticated, charming, and extremely knowledgeable. Filled with warmth and good taste, the guesthouse is owned and run by Avnish and Urvashi Puri. It’s their energy and creative panache that make this a satisfying experience, as amenities are pretty basic. The four modest guest rooms occupy the two floors above their home; two of the rooms are located on the rooftop terrace. All rooms share two sets of immaculately clean bathroom facilities (showers only).
You’ll find comfortable beds, writing tables, and a carefully sourced objet d’art in each room, while the entire house is decorated with sculpted gods, handicrafts, and artworks. There’s an aqua purification system, so you’ll shower in cleaner water than the bottled stuff you drink, and an emergency inverter deals with Delhi’s unpredictable electricity supply. Hot-water bottles and heaters are provided in winter, and there’s air-conditioning when it gets warm. Home-cooked meals are prepared from fresh market ingredients and served in a small dining room — simply order by ringing a bell and jotting down your request. Meals are also served on the rooftop terrace; you’ll find a scented garden nook as well as a meditation room cluttered with images of gurus and gods, and enthusiasts can enjoy an early-morning yoga session.
The guesthouse is 4km (2 1/2 miles) from Connaught Place, but Avnish offers a wonderful “Hidden Delhi” experiential tour through the city, showing you a world never seen by most visitors to Delhi, and he’ll unravel Hinduism’s spiritual origins in a profoundly logical way. Reserve in advance, and arrange for a pickup if you want to avoid haggling with taxi drivers at the airport; Avnish will also assist with onward transfers. The only drawback (for some) is that you feel more like a guest in someone’s house than in a hotel, but again, this is the whole idea, and a very gentle introduction to India.